The Clarke Super 7R is the most common floor edger rental for the DIY refinisher. It's lightweight, maneuverable, and essential for sanding the edges and corners a drum sander can't reach. Getting the right discs—and understanding PSA vs. hook-and-loop—makes the difference between an amateur-looking floor and professional results.
Clarke Super 7R Specifications
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Disc Diameter | 7 inches |
| Center Hole | 7/8 inch OR 5/16 inch (check your machine) |
| Motor | 1.5 HP |
| RPM | 175–2500 (variable speed) |
| Width | ~5 inches (working width along wall) |
| Weight | ~35 lbs |
| Best For | Edging 300–800 sq ft floors; pair with drum sander |
Disc Size: 7 Inches Diameter
The Clarke Super 7R uses a 7-inch disc—this is standard and specific to the machine. Do not substitute 5-inch, 6-inch, or 8-inch discs; they won't fit correctly.
Two Center Hole Sizes (Critical)
This is where most DIYers get stuck. The Super 7R comes with one of two center hole sizes:
7/8 Inch Center Hole
- Most common on newer Clarke 7R models
- Standard on most generic 7-inch edger discs
- If you're unsure, measure your machine's arbor (spindle)
5/16 Inch Center Hole
- Found on some older Clarke models
- Less common; harder to find discs for this size
- Special-order or proprietary discs only
How to identify your machine: Look at the center spindle on your Clarke 7R. Measure the diameter. It's either 7/8 inch (looks like a thick bolt) or 5/16 inch (looks like a thin rod). If unsure, ask the rental company or check the manual. Ordering the wrong size is a waste of money and time.
PSA vs. Hook-and-Loop Discs
PSA (Pressure-Sensitive Adhesive) Discs
- How they work: Sticky backing adheres directly to the machine's rubber pad. No fasteners needed.
- Application: Peel backing and press the disc onto the pad. Align carefully on the first try; repositioning breaks adhesive.
- Removal: Peel off after sanding (reuse if not damaged). Takes some effort; pulling too hard can tear the disc.
- Cost: Slightly cheaper per disc (~$2–$4)
- Best for: Quick jobs where you won't change discs frequently. Once-through screening or light edging.
- Downside: Adhesive weakens over time. A disc might slip partway through use. Heat from extended sanding can reduce adhesion.
Hook-and-Loop Discs (Recommended)
- How they work: Velcro-like backing grabs a hook-and-loop pad (like Velcro) attached to the machine.
- Application: Press firmly and evenly; it grabs instantly and holds securely.
- Removal: Peel off smoothly; less effort than PSA. Discs can be reused many times if not damaged.
- Cost: Slightly more expensive per disc (~$3–$5). But the machine needs a hook-and-loop pad installed first (~$10–$20, one-time cost for a rented machine).
- Best for: Professional work, multiple-grit jobs, or longer refinishing projects. The convenience is worth the small extra cost.
- Advantage: Holds perfectly even under vibration. You can change discs 20 times without slipping. Discs last longer because they aren't mangled during removal.
Which Should You Choose?
For a typical DIY floor refinish:
- Hook-and-loop is better. Yes, the machine costs a bit more to set up, but the convenience and reliability are worth it. You'll change discs multiple times (different grits), and hook-and-loop makes this painless.
- PSA works if you're only doing one grit pass (e.g., just light screening on a drum-sanded floor). But most edging requires 2–3 grits, making multiple PSA changes annoying and error-prone.
Pro tip: Ask your rental company if the machine comes with hook-and-loop pad installed. Many do now. If not, ask them to install one for a small fee; it'll save you frustration.
Disc Recommendations by Grit
Virginia Abrasives 7-Inch Discs (Recommended)
Virginia Abrasives makes excellent 7-inch edger discs. Available in PSA or hook-and-loop backing:
| Grit | Purpose | Used After | Closed or Open Coat |
|---|---|---|---|
| 36 or 60 | First pass; removes old finish | Before drum sander or with it | Closed coat |
| 80 | Second pass; removes 60-grit scratches | After 60-grit drum/edger | Closed coat |
| 120 | Final pass; prepares for stain | After 80-grit drum/edger | Closed coat |
| 150 | Ultra-fine screening between coats | Between polyurethane coats | Closed coat |
Alternative Brands
- 3M or Bosch: Premium discs, slightly higher cost (~$4–$6). Excellent consistency; worth it for fine furniture or high-end floor work.
- Norton: Solid quality, mid-range price (~$3–$5).
- Generic discs: Avoid. Variable quality; some are dull out of the box.
How Many Discs Do You Need?
| Room Size | 60 Grit | 80 Grit | 120 Grit |
|---|---|---|---|
| 250 sq ft | 2–3 | 2–3 | 1–2 |
| 400 sq ft | 3–4 | 3–4 | 2–3 |
| 600 sq ft | 5–6 | 5–6 | 3–4 |
Note: Edger discs wear faster than drum sander sheets because the 7R operates at very high pressure and RPM. Budget generously. You can reuse hook-and-loop discs that aren't completely dead for final light passes.
How to Change and Install Discs
PSA Disc (Adhesive-Backed)
- Turn off the machine and unplug it.
- Clean the rubber pad with a lint-free cloth. Remove all dust and old adhesive residue.
- Peel the backing from the new PSA disc halfway.
- Align the disc carefully on the pad. Start at one edge and press firmly.
- Peel the rest of the backing and press the entire disc firmly onto the pad, working from center outward to remove air bubbles.
- Wait 1–2 minutes before operating; adhesive needs time to set.
Hook-and-Loop Disc
- Turn off the machine and unplug it.
- Check that the hook-and-loop pad is installed on the machine. (If not, have the rental company install one.)
- Press the new disc firmly onto the pad. Align the center hole and press outward in all directions.
- It grabs instantly; you're ready to go. No waiting for adhesive.
Removing a Worn Disc
PSA: Peel carefully from one edge. If it tears, use a scraper to remove residue.
Hook-and-Loop: Peel smoothly from one edge. Very easy removal.
Clarke 7R Edging Technique
Basic Technique
- Hold the machine steady with both hands. Don't let it tip or lean; the disc should kiss the floor edge gently.
- Keep the disc tilted slightly toward the wall. You want the edge of the disc (not the flat face) to kiss the wall/baseboard. This gives you a clean line.
- Move steadily along the wall. Don't linger; keep a constant slow walking pace.
- Use steady pressure. Don't jam the machine into the wall. Light, consistent pressure lets the disc do the work.
- Overlap your passes slightly along walls and in corners to avoid missing spots.
Corners and Tight Spots
- Inside corners: Tilt the disc to 45 degrees and ease it into the corner. Make short passes.
- Around door frames: Carefully edge around the frame. The disc edge should stop short of the frame trim.
- Under radiators and obstacles: Reach under with the disc as far as safely possible. Hand-sand any spots the machine can't reach.
Avoiding Common Edge-Sanding Disasters
- Don't press hard: Excessive pressure gouges the floor and breaks discs. Light pressure = better results.
- Don't leave the disc spinning in one spot. It will burn or gouge the wood instantly.
- Don't tilt the disc flat against the floor. The flat disc surface is too aggressive for finishing; you want the edge doing the work.
- Don't skip variable speed. Lower RPM (500–1000) for heavy cutting, higher RPM (2000–2500) for final passes. Most rental 7Rs have variable speed; use it.
Variable Speed and When to Use It
Low Speed (175–1000 RPM)
- First pass (36 or 60 grit): More aggressive cut
- Prevents disc from glazing (surface getting shiny from heat)
- Better control; easier to handle
High Speed (1500–2500 RPM)
- Fine grits (120+): Smoother finish
- Light passes: Quick work on nearly-sanded edges
- More vibration; harder to control
Pro setting: 60 grit at 800–1200 RPM, 80 grit at 1200–1500 RPM, 120 grit at 1800–2500 RPM.
Troubleshooting Problems
Disc Slips or Spins Without Cutting
- PSA: Adhesive is weak. Peel off and re-install, ensuring no air bubbles. If it still slips, the pad is dirty; clean it.
- Hook-and-loop: Pad is worn or missing. Ask rental company to replace or install a new one.
- Disc is glazed: Surface is shiny, not cutting. Lower RPM or change to a fresh disc.
Disc Tears or Chunks Come Out
- Too much pressure. Lighten your touch.
- Disc hit an obstacle (nail, wood splinter). Inspect floor for hazards.
- Disc was defective out of the box. Replace it.
Uneven Sanding (Dips or Miss Spots)
- Not overlapping passes enough. Make longer, more overlapped passes.
- Tilting the disc inconsistently. Keep angle steady.
- Moving too fast. Slow down; the disc needs time to cut.
Complementary Techniques: Hand Sanding Edges
Even with an edger, some spots are unreachable: very tight corners, under baseboards, around door hinges. Hand-sand these areas with 80–120 grit to blend.
- Use a sanding block for more control
- Sand with the grain
- Light pressure to match edger results
- This final detail work is what separates pro-looking floors from amateur jobs
Shop Virginia Abrasives Edger Discs on Amazon
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Need the full grit progression? See our sandpaper grit chart for the complete NWFA-aligned sequence with machine compatibility and sheet counts.